The magazine for all things Ixtapa-Zihuatanejo
Serving the Ixtapa-Zihuatanejo community since 1999
Available at select spots all across Ixtapa-Zihuatanejo
The magazine for all things Ixtapa-Zihuatanejo
Serving the Ixtapa-Zihuatanejo community since 1999
Available at select spots all across Ixtapa-Zihuatanejo
Arts and EntertainmentWearing the Art of FashionFor those of us lucky enough to be on La Ropa beach at sunset on December 30, we were treated to models dressed like classic Hellenic statues. Each wore one spectacular neckpiece by New York jewellery artist, Arthur Koby. What better setting than sand, sea and last light of day to see this exquisite new collection. Clusters of gems woven with a distinct geometry reminded one of diadems. The runway show looking like a Greek tableau was organized by Rocio Madrazo of Galart at Hotel Villa del Sol. Considering Koby’s architectural background, the geometrics are not surprising. Trained at The Cooper Union, he began his career designing public buildings and winning awards. Adventuring around the world, he collected gold pieces, shells, old coins, exotic beads, seeds, buttons, antique metals. Then he applied his architectural skills to construct unique jewelery with these found objects, which he sold in the U.S. and Canada. Inevitably, fame caught up to him. While working with a window dresser, he accessorized a Geoffrey Beene outfit with one of his own creations. Beene bought the necklace himself and asked to meet the artist. Thus began a ten-year working relationship with Koby designing jewellery for Beene’s clothing. Media exposure including magazines such as Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar followed. His work became a vital force in the bold look of the eighties. It is difficult not to namedrop for Koby’s list of credits goes on. He’s worked with the likes of Oscar de la Renta and Donna Karan. Many famous necks have worn his pieces; Barbara Walters, Gloria Vanderbilt, Catherine Zeta-Jones as well as a bevy of other actresses. It is no wonder. They make every wearer look beautiful. Each collar in this collection is a meticulous construction--little suspension bridges sprouting clusters of sumptuous jewels. Elegant leaf-shaped green chrysophrase; baroque pearls; faceted amethysts, dusky lemon topazes, quartz of all kinds. In each piece, gems weave through a focal cable, snakelike creating impressions of designs we might see on ancient temples. By using organic shapes, he defies geometry; creates a fluid whole. Especially enchanting is a piece with turquoises, opaque and amorphous contrasting with brilliant blue topazes, the opposing blues, a stunning blend, a lesson in juxtaposition. This particular collection of collars, although still baroque, is subdued compared to some of Koby’s signature work. Ornate. Monumental. One intricate piece features a large shell pendant embellished with hand-hammered metal. The shell drops from a cable of antique metals, seeds, beads, new and old gold and green crystals. Whereas the other pieces can easily be seen on royalty, this one can be envisioned on an ancient Etruscan queen. By having a show such as this, Madrazo’s intention is to promote the art of jewellery as well as traditional art in her galleries. With enthusiasm she talks about the work of two women she represents. Emilia Castillo is one example of a multimedia artist. Her line of silver jewellery is Mayan- influenced as well as her tableware (hand-hammered salad tossers with copper rope handles), hollowware (high polished pitchers in the shape of a toucan) and sculptures, also brought to a gleaming polish. Born into art, daughter of Lisa and Antonio Castillo (both renowned), she was destined. Castillo has done work for the Vatican, the World Polo Masters trophy and commissions for visiting heads of state. Based in Taxco, a town her father helped rescue in the fifties with the silver jewellery trade, she continues her work on the ranch where she was raised. Castillo offers a supportive environment for the many assistants she now employs. All work is hand-done. There is education provided for the children of workers and she welcomes anyone with an artistic bent to pursue silversmithing, lapidary work, ceramics or woodworking all of which are used in her extensive lines. Castillo claims that as a child her toys were all elements in nature and these have been strong influences in her work. She combines silver plate with alabaster, black onyx and malachite and developed a method of fusing inlaid sterling onto porcelain. The results are exquisite tableware of muted blues and greens delicately decorated with raised silver fish or frogs or iguanas lurking over the rim of a large serving bowl in chase of delicate dragonflies. Gigi Mizrahi Shapiro is another jewellery artist Madrazo is keen to point out. Self-taught like Koby and influenced by nature like Castillo and Koby, she has perfected the lost wax method of casting jewellery into images from nature frozen into icy sterling silver repetitions. A tree bark casting fashioned into a layered choker that drapes down the throat is a particularly striking example. Bezelled ovals of linear cornhusk patterns as well as shells, chiles, corn and even prawns provide perfect designs for linked bracelets and earrings. But Mizrahi ventures off into more mythical, magical and ritualistic themes she has drawn from primitive roots. With European, mid-eastern roots but Mexican born like Castillo, Mizrahi gleaned from her distant past a line of jewellery repeating Mayan motifs and hieroglyphics revering symbols from pelota games, ancient alphabets and sacred animals. In a world besieged by high speed and mass production, it is refreshing to be exposed to artists whose works are crafted with such love and care, particularly in the case of Koby, who sometimes takes months to complete one piece…like a fine painting. This indeed is the art of jewellery. |
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