| Surfing Guerrero, Part 3 |
by Bill Cooksey
March 2004
In the past two articles we discussed the various surf breaks the Ixtapa/Zihuatanejo area has to offer. In this month’s article let’s switch gears and talk about surfing in general. One might wonder what is there to talk about, it look’s simple enough, just get a surfboard, paddle out, catch a wave and stand up. What could be so complicated about that? You can not imagine, VOLUMES can be written on the many facets that make up this gem called surfing.
Surfing has become the thing to do. It seems like everyone wants to surf. You have to crawl before you walk and that holds true for surfing also. If you are a beginner there are a few logical steps to follow that will get you surfing as quickly as possible. Step one, find a good teacher and take a series of lessons. This will get you started on the right track saving yourself allot of heartache. A good teacher will start with the basics on the beach, explaining the proper technique on how to stand on a surfboard and how to handle a surfboard in and out of the water. He or she will give the student basic theory on wave selection, the nature of currents and waves and safety precautions.
A smart teacher will start the beginner surfer out in the white water close to shore. A common mistake in teaching is making the beginner surfer paddle too much. It doesn’t matter if you are in the best shape of your life, paddling will tire you out quickly and once you are tired the game is over. You have to build up your paddling muscles and that can only be done over time. So a conscientious teacher will do the work for you, he will push you into waves, this allows the student to concentrate on the proper technique of standing up which is the primary goal for the first day. Once the surfer is standing consistently then the teacher will slowly give the student more to think about.
Personally, once I have the students standing on every wave then I will show them the simple way to catch waves on his own. Now the teacher has a very “stoked” surfer on his hands.
When the student feels that he or she is ready to move up a level then we will change surfboards and locations and begin surfing in earnest.
O.k. you now have the tools to surf on your own, you’ve been taught the proper way to stand, you learned theory on wave selection, wave etiquette, paddling techniques and how to handle your board so you will not hurt you or anyone else. It feels pretty good doesn’t it? Let’s go surfing; I’ll go with you. Let’s pretend we have a nice south swell coming in from far in the Southern Hemisphere. It is about six-foot and very clean. I suggest we go to one of the left points that face south. You’ll want to put on sun screen first, believe it or not there is a trick to applying sunscreen, if done right you will have more time in the water and if done wrong you will feel miserable. Most sunscreens that I have used will burn your eyes, making them tear up and uncomfortable out in the water so here is the trick. Apply the sunscreen an hour before you go out on dry skin, if you need it on your forehead then rub it in good. This hour wait allows the sunscreen to sit in your skin. It dries like an extra layer of skin and you will find yourself enjoying your surf more. Now we need to wax the board, wax is applied to the top of the board to allow for traction with your feet. Once again, there are tricks to waxing a surfboard properly. The wax used is specially formulated for surfboard applications. Take the bar of wax and apply it with a circular motion using a slight pressure. Continue the motion allowing the wax to build up layer by layer ending in a nice beaded coat. Good, let’s put on the leash, this is a personal thing, some surfers like it on tight and some loose, the leash is normally attached around the ankle of the back foot when you are standing on the board.
Now we are paddling out to the line up or area where the waves break. There is a method to this also, don’t be in a huge hurry, conserve your energy for when you will need it, nice and steady is the trick. Take deep strokes with a slightly cupped hand as if you where swimming free style. You want to become part of the ocean, be aware of wind chop, cross currents, other surfers and wave consistency. Paddling is not a marathon race, it is better to arrive to the line up with energy because that perfect wave with your name on it might be the next wave that comes in. Here comes your wave, you know it is yours because first, there is no one closer to the breaking wave paddling for the wave, second there is no one in front of you to run over and third you are in perfect position. The wave is just steep enough to allow a clean entry into the wave. Wait, don’t start paddling too soon, that is a common mistake, if you go too soon you will find that you no longer are in perfect position. You are now too far inside and the wave will most likely break on your head. So wait right where you where, let the wave come to you, if done properly, you will only need a few strokes to catch the wave. You are now in the proper slot on the wave and you didn’t expend too much energy. You feel yourself dropping in, on the point breaks it is better to turn at the top of the wave and pump the board down the line staying high in the face. This will give you the speed you will need to make the inside sections.
Congratulations, you are surfing, it is a great feeling, you’re doing it right and you blend in with your fellow surfers and everyone is having a good time. Next issue we will discuss the details of wave etiquette and surfboard selection. Remember, you are in the right spot, Ixtapa/Zihuatanejo is a virtual wave machine!
Bill Cooksey, is a Texas born surfer with 40 years experience. His first trip to Mexico was in 1966 and he has been coming to Mexico ever since. He has surfed the north shore of Hawaii, all of the Central American countries, California and the East Coast. He owns and operates JAGUAR TOURS in Troncones ( just twenty-five minutes from Ixtapa/Zihuatanejo) where he conducts zip-line and cave tours daily, www.jaguartours.net. With 20 years experience teaching surf lessons, he still loves to surf and has no intention of stopping. You can reach him at Jaguar Tours in Troncones, (755) 553-2862 or jaguartours@hotmail.com |
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