| Surfing Guerrero - Part 4 |
by Bill Cooksey
April 2004
The more we look into the world of surfing the more we find. This issue will explore surfboards and surfboard selection. The word “surfboard” is described in the Merriam-Webster dictionary as “a buoyant board used in riding the crests of waves”. Accurate to some extent but vague at best.
A more precise description for a surfboard would be a vehicle for riding waves. One can ride waves using numerous methods. Let’s start with the basics. Body surfing, where you surf the wave as if swimming, is still surfing. It is actually one of the hardest methods to master and takes a lot of practice. One needs to position oneself correctly in the wave (as opposed to on the wave). Body surfers are a hardy bunch! Variations of body surfing range from the use of a small hand-held board for extra flotation, to a soft top board about the size of ones torso known as a boogie board. Now the surfer finds himself on the wave as oppose to in the wave. Maneuverability is the name of the game once you are on the wave. The next step up in wave vehicles is the kneeboard. The surfer will ride the wave on his knees and uses a set of small kick fins to help him catch the wave easier. Kneeboards are appealing to some because of their ability to ride deeper in the tube or hollow part of the breaking wave. From kneeboards we progress to the standard surfboard, the wave vehicle where one rides standing up on the board. This method allows for the most control and maneuverability and is by far the most popular form of riding waves. No matter what vehicle you choose to ride waves, it all falls under the term surfing. Let’s focus on the most popular wave vehicle, the surfboard.
Surfboards come in many shapes or designs. The design consists of the outline shape of the board, the length, thickness, width, etc. One has an endless choice on designs. Personal preference plays a large role in determining what type of surfboard one rides. The size and type of wave is another major factor to consider when choosing your surfboard. Most experienced surfers have several types of surfboards to ride depending on the size and type of wave. When the surf is very small and lacks power the surfer will most likely choose a longboard to ride. The longboard has more floatation and board volume to allow the surfer to tap into the small wave energy. Longboards can be entertaining, and although they lack the maneuverability of a shortboard they are great for nose riding. Nose riding is when the wave shape allows the surfer to walk to the nose or tip of the board and extend his toes over or very near the tip. Noseriding is an art, it takes practice but once mastered the sensation is exhilarating. Generally a longboard would be any surfboard nine foot or longer with width in the nose for nose riding. There is another longboard used for very big waves called the gun or rhino chaser. This board is narrower than a conventional board from nose to tail. This surfboard is designed to catch the big wave early so the surfer has time to stand up before the lip of the big wave hits him.
Most wave heights are in between the very small and very large waves. This is where the shorter surfboards come into play. There are endless choices in shortboard design. They start in the eight-foot range getting shorter inch by inch. The eight footers can be shaped numerous ways but generally will be a little narrower than a conventional surfboard and resemble a longboard in appearance. They could be classified as a play shape or hybrid. One can still ride the nose on them and maneuverability is better. As the wave begins to increase in speed shorter surfboards can be ridden. Once again, an endless choice of surfboard designs is available. Some surfers consider surfboards ranging in the seven-foot range down to the five-foot range as short boards while others (usually younger surfers) consider seven footers as guns. The design of the shortboard is determined by what type of wave is to be ridden and the experienced surfer will most likely have more than one type to choose from. Smaller waves with less power call for a slightly wider shortboard both in the nose, hips and tail. This gives the surfer more flotation, which allows him to tap into the waves energy. As the wave increase in power the shortboard can become narrower, giving the surfer more maneuverability. Subtle changes in one or all of these widths can make a big difference in how the surfboard performs on the wave. A surfboard’s performance is also determined by the rocker or curve in the length of the board. When one looks at a surfboard from the narrow side of the board one sees that the surfboard is not flat and straight like a plank of wood. It has curvature; one can see the tail and the nose rise up, which is known as rocker. Surfboards with low rocker will have more contact with the water and can tap the wave energy allowing the surfer to surf slower waves easier. A surfboard with more rocker is designed for steeper waves with more power. Waves with more power will usually be hollow; hollow refers to the lip of the wave breaking to form a tube. A surfboard with more rocker will fit the curvature of a tube and will be more maneuverable.
Now we have a general understanding of surfboards, one can choose a surfboard that fits ability, the type of wave to be surfed and interest. What we talked about in this article is not etched in stone. You have surfers that ride short boards in very small surf; you have surfers that ride longboards in larger more powerful surf. It is really up to you. Now that you have a surfboard you are ready to surf, we need to learn one more thing, surf etiquette, which is next months issue.
Bill Cooksey, is a Texas born surfer with 40 years experience. His first trip to Mexico was in 1966 and he has been coming to Mexico ever since. He has surfed the north shore of Hawaii, all of the Central American countries, California and the East Coast. He owns and operates JAGUAR TOURS in Troncones ( just twenty-five minutes from Ixtapa/Zihuatanejo) where he conducts zip-line and cave tours daily, www.jaguartours.net. With 20 years experience teaching surf lessons, he still loves to surf and has no intention of stopping. You can reach him at Jaguar Tours in Troncones, (755) 553-2862 or jaguartours@hotmail.com |
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