Patzcuaro - Gem of Michoacan

by Lisa B. Martin

The highway leading from the hot mountains into the Lake Patzcuaro region begins to change about 40 minutes before the turnoff to this wondrous place nestled mid-center in the neighboring state of Michoacan. Tall pines and graceful eucalyptus trees begin to appear along the roadway; broad green meadows edged with ancient stone fences spread toward verdant mountains; and the temperature drops from searing high nineties into cool mid 70’s. Roll down the car window and take in the aroma.

Ahh, Patzcuaro! Green, pine-scented oasis against a lovely backdrop of lakes and mountains.

If one has not visited a true Mexican Colonial city, Patzcuaro is the place to start. It’s a gem among small cities, easily accessible by car only 4-4 ½ hours from Zihuatantejo-Ixtapa, and rich with tastefully preserved architectural and cultural heritage. In 1540, Patzcuaro’s hero, Don Vasco de Quiroga, transferred the Bishopric of Michoacan from nearby Tzintzuntzan to Patzcuaro, making it for a time the state capital, and an important government and commerce center. In addition to encouraging Catholicism and the construction of strong and beautiful religious buildings, missions, and educational centers whose edifices survive today, Quiroga invited and encouraged all the native indigenous artisans, and combined the learning of Spanish wood working and crafts techniques (including guitar-making) to create a regional environment that is, today, still so clearly proud of its artistic talents and heritage.

Near but not on the lake, the city center of Patzcuaro has narrow cobblestone streets, whitewashed buildings, tile roofs, courtyard gardens, and church towers reminiscent of Tuscany. In the famous Plaza Vasco de Quiroga, towering pines, broad stone benches, and lovely flowers fill the open plaza - considered by some to be the most beautiful in Latin America. In the central fountain stands the 25’ figure of Quiroga himself, still peacefully holding guard over the tranquil city he helped create.

Visitors can readily explore the lake and several islands, which are easily reached by public launches from the local embarcadero (pier) – worth seeing itself. Colorful boats come and go, shops vend crafts and clothing, and seafood stands offer fried local fish.

Hidden Treasures

Patzcuaro is a visual and cultural mecca. A peek into some of its smaller corners reveals cheerful people, distinguished in their crafts. In Plaza Quiroga, I delighted in talking with a Purepecha indian woman from whom I purchased a local white cotton embroidered rebosa (shawl). She proudly showed me her diploma in sewing from the local Indian occupations office.

Another living treasure I found was silver artist Jesus Garcia Zavala. The tiny cluttered workshop of his plateria in Avenue Ensenanza is between the Basilica de Nuestra Senora de Salud (Basilica of Our Lady of Health) and the Museo de Artes y Industrias Populares (Museum of Popular Art and Industry). Garcia creates fine silver “milagro” fish, representative of those found in the lake. He sells them individually or as jewelry, which has received accolades in international history and fashion magazines. I enjoyed seeing his dusty news clippings and his personal collection of old milagros, small metal “charms” in symbolic shapes left in churches as tokens of prayer and hope for certain ailments and aspirations.

The Museo de Artes e Industrias Populares is a must-see for a perfect snapshot of Michoacan’s history of arts and craftmanship. It can be toured quickly, or slowly with excellent docents, and contains truly fine collections of beautifully organized ceramics, enamels, masks, and to my delight, a collection of over 50 whimsical clay whistles in people and animal shapes. The central courtyard garden of the primary 1540’s building is also undergoing a quality restoration, resplendent with greenery and flowers.

My favorites lie in the rear garden: a wall from several centuries ago with “monk’s calendars” etched into it: rows of tiny dots mark the weekdays, with crosses etched in for Sundays. Murals in the Patzcuaro Public LibraryAnd there’s a fully furnished tiny wood cottage typical of the lakes and mountains, too.

A peek into the La Biblioteca Publica (The Public Library) in Plaza Gertrudis Bocanegra presents an epic mural, “La Historia de Michoacan,” by Juan O’Gorman, towering two stories up under a curving wood vaulted ceiling. Rise early on Friday mornings and see the contemporary bounty of Michoacan and its lakes regions in the local market around Plaza Gertrudis and Plaza San Francisco. Mountains of chiles, seasonal fruits, flowers, herbs and vegetables will delight you as much as the colorful local indigenous vendors peddling them.

For info and travel directions, see www.surf-mexico.com under Regional, Michoacan. The local Tourism Office is at Plaza Vasco de Quiroga, 50-A, Patzcuaro, tel. (434) 342-12-14, turismo@yreri.crefal.edu.mx, http://michoacan.gob.mx

Lisa B. Martin is a freelance writer, publicist, and photographer who is a winter resident of Zihuatanejo/Troncones, and hails from Gloucester, Massachusetts. Reach her at lisa@lisabmartin.com

April 2003

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