In Mexico food is associated with conviviality, family gatherings, religious occasions and historical events.
During September, when Mexicans celebrate their Independence from Spain on September 15, 1810, private homes, restaurants and street vendors offer a wide array of “antojitos” (tortilla-based tidbits) The streets are full with Mexican flags, green, red and white paper trumpets, silk paper chains, bells and ornaments. You can find many cars carrying a Mexican flag tied to their antennae. Most public buildings are decorated with flags, banners and an enormous amount of lights.
On September 15, the Mexican president, the governors and city mayors celebrate a ceremony to commemorate the “Grito de Independencia” to remember the call to arms by priest Miguel HIdalgo. They usually wave a flag from the balcony of city hall and shout “Viva Mexico, Vivan los Heroes que nos dieron patria” Long live Mexico, Long live the heroes who gave us a country!! And the people who are gathered in the squares, answer “Viva Mexico”
After that, people walk around buying food from the stalls, pozole (pork or chicken stew with hominy) tamales, quesadillas (cheese-filled tortillas) and all sorts of different antojitos which are for sale on the streets. There is usually a military parade the following day.
September is also the time of year to prepare “Chiles en Nogada” (stuffed poblano peppers in a walnut sauce) It is said that at the beginning of the 19Th Century, when the independence had been consummated, President Iturbide visited the city of Puebla. The nuns from a local convent concocted this marvelous creation to honor him.
This dish, which is one of Mexico´s culinary jewels requires a long preparation time and the best fruits and nuts of the season are used. Into the stuffing go apples, pears, peaches, almonds, raisins, pine nuts, olives, minced pork and beef meat, tomatoes, onions, garlic and herbs.
For making the sauce, nuez de Castilla (fresh walnuts) which are in season only during August and September, are essential. They have to be cracked and the skins removed by hand, dropping them in milk as they are peeled.
There are several versions of this recipe, some of them indicate that chilies have to be dipped in an egg batter and fried before topping them with the succulent sauce. Others call for room-temperature chilies filled with the warm stuffing that are then covered with the walnut sauce.
As for the sauce, there are also several opinions, some cooks blend the nuts with a cream cheese, cream and a little sugar; while others use goat cheese, sherry and cream. The sauce is served at room temperature on top on the chilies, with pomegranate seeds. This dish has the colors of the Mexican flag, the green chilies, the white luscious nut cream and the pomegranate are a clear reminder of Mexican national feelings.
Chiles en nogada are a truly exceptional sample of fine Mexican food.
October 2001
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