| The Taste of Mexico - Dia de los Muertos |
by Gabriela Braña
The festivities of All Souls Day and the Day of the Dead “Todos Santos y Los Fieles Difuntos” are among the most spectacular in Mexico.
In some places there is a distinction made among those who died by murder (October 28th.) those who died when they were children (November 1st.) adults (November 2nd.) and even the souls who are in limbo, those children who died before being baptized (October 30th.)
Some historians like Friar Diego Duran explain that Miccailhuitoutli or “the feast of the small dead ones” was celebrated on the ninth month of Tlaxochimaco (August) while the older dead ones were remembered on Xocotlhuitzin (September).
These festivities are the result of the syncretism of pre-Hispanic and Catholic religions. When the Spaniards arrived in Mexico their beliefs were merged with the practices that had been carried out by the Aztecs for several centuries, establishing a tradition that has been handed down by generations up to the present.
The cult to the dead ones is one of the basic elements of the religion of ancient Mexicans. This practice dates back to 1,800 B.C. during the period known as Late Pre-Classic. Aztecs celebrated the dead during July, August and September in worship of godess Mictlecacihuatl, queen of Chignamictlan, or the ninth level of Hell. They believed that life and death constitute a unity, death does not mean the end of existence, it is a transient road towards a better life.
Due to the firm conviction that the dead return every year, the people set up altars in their homes to remember their beloved dead ones.
These offerings or altars are decorated with “Cempasuchil” flowers, candles, silk-paper ornaments, fruits and the departed one´s favorite dishes along with his or her favorite drinks, tequila, hot chocolate, beer, coffe. Incense fills the air as the photograph of the deceased occupies the most important place, surrounded by sugar skulls with the names of relatives and friends (dead or alive). There is also “pan de muerto” a special kind of bread, rounded and with small “bones” on top of it, baked for the occasion and covered with sugar, “calabaza en tacha” a rich compote of pumpkin in a syrup made with piloncillo (a kind of molasses), there are tamales, mole, diverse skeletons made of clay, paper mache or sugar and, of course the brand of cigarettes favored by the deceased.
The dead are expected to pay their visit on November 1st and 2nd. and eat and drink from their offering. The following day, family and friends gather to remember the departed ones and to share the food and drinks prepared for them.
It is also customary to write “calaveras” (literally skulls) which are poems that talk about important people, be it the president, famous actors and actresses, sports figures, celebrities, one´s boss, friends and relatives. They describe in a humorous way how they were taken by the “calaca” (the skinny one, the bald one, the boney one) either dancing, playing or singing to the other world.
Mexicans joke about death, dance with it, flirt with it, smile at it, not out of disrespect but due to the deep understanding that it is this life which is transitory.
Then it is a time to go to the cemetery and visit the graves, decorate them with flowers, candles and ornaments. Some cemeteries are famous for the colorful rituals that take place in them. People spend the night in them amongst thousands of candles and flowers, incense and religious fervor.
Some of the most beautiful are Mixquic, near Mexico City, Patzcuaro in the State of Michoacan and the ones in Puebla, Oaxaca and Morelos.
One of the best ways to honor the living or the dead is:
Pipian Blanco (8 persons)
Ingredients:
* 8 chicken legs and thighs
* 6 cups water
* 2 carrots sliced lengthwise
* 1 onion, quartered
* 2 cloves of garlic
* 1 bay leaf
* salt, pepper and some parsley
* 3 celery ribs
Sauce:
* 1 cup sesame seeds
* 1 cup almonds, skinned
* 3 tbsp oil
* 2 tsp chicken bouillon
* 3/4 cup green olives
* 2 tbsp. capers
Cook the chicken in the water with the vegetables and condiments. Once it is cooked, remove the skin and strain the liquid.
Toast the sesame seeds lightly. Blend them with the almonds and 2 cups of the broth.
Heat the oil in a large casserole and pour the mixture over it. Season with the chicken bouillon, let simmer for about 8 minutes. Add the chicken, the olives and capers and check seasoning. If necessary add more broth.
A recipe to die for!
Gabriela Braña is the chef and owner with her husband of Al Cilantro restaurant in Ixtapa. An expert in Oriental Cooking with a life long love of Mexican cuisine. She can be reached at 553-0610 or 3puertasixtapa@cdnet.com.mx
November 2001
Contents | Previous | Next |
|
|
