by Gabriela Braña

Mexicans and fowl have had a long relationship, even prior to the arrival of the Spaniards.

Although indigenous people had a diet based on fish, vegetables and insects mainly, they used to hunt wild birds also.

During the fall, the people from central Mexico, diverted their attention from the fields to the wilderness. In November there was a feasts called Tepeilhuitl, dedicated to the most important mountains. There was also the feast for the dead ones when they made offerings of tamales, sweets and hen dishes.

That is when large flocks of migratory bids from the North of the continent arrived. The lagoons were full of herons, ducks, geese, swans and numerous smaller birds that were captured by the most amazing schemes. Some hunters put a pumpkin over their heads and walked slowly towards the duck. When the duck started pecking at the pumpkin the hunter would grab it by the feet. They also used bows and arrows, nets and log spears made of reed.

Chicken, on the other hand, was first domesticated in China around 1,200 BC. Prior to its domestication, the fowl of the wild jungle must have been a rather tough creature. It was not known in Europe until about AD 600, but by the time explorers were out searching for the edge of the world it had become a common food source. Chickens probably came on board the ships as the explorers arrived to conquer new lands.

Once in America, the bird has been a common staple throughout the years. It is versatile and inexpensive, also if you remove the skin from the bird, it is low in fat.

The following recipe is easy to do, wonderful in flavor and the aroma coming out of the kitchen, while it is being prepared, is heavenly.

ROASTED CHICKEN WITH GARLIC

Ingredients:

* 1 large whole frying chicken
* 40 un-peeled cloves of garlic
* Salt and pepper to taste
* 3/4 cups dry white wine

Pat the chicken dry. Rub inside and out with one split clove of garlic. Lightly salt and pepper. Preheat oven to 450°. Place chicken on a roasting rack in a baking pan and arrange cloves of garlic around in the pan. Place in the oven and reduce heat to 350°. Bake 20m minutes and then pour wine over chicken. Baste again in 10 minutes and again 10 minutes later. Roast a total of 1 hour, or longer if you like.

Serve the chicken on a platter with the garlic on the side. In this way you can squirt the cooked garlic cloves onto a crisp baguette or potatoes.

Try this with a green salad and a well chilled sauvignon blanc or chardonnay.

Salud!

Gabriela Braña is the chef and owner with her husband of Al Cilantro restaurant in Ixtapa. An expert in Oriental Cooking with a life long love of Mexican cuisine. She can be reached at 553-0610 or 3puertasixtapa@cdnet.com.mx

January 2002

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