| In Search of the Perfect Sandwich |
by K.L. Moore
Growing up, I was forced to do many things by my parents, things I was not fond of doing: mowing grass, picking up dog poo, raking leaves, cleaning toilets and making sandwiches. As the oldest of four children I was constantly having to make sandwiches for lunches and each person had very unique tastes. So when a sandwich is made for me to perfection I am in heaven. Several restaurants in the area of Zihuatanejo/Ixtapa serve sandwiches, or shall I say, ‘tortas’ just the way I like them. A ‘torta’ is served on a sandwich roll of sorts, split open, grilled on the ‘comal’ and the filled with all your favorites: different meats, cheeses, lettuce, tomatoes and peppers. In search of the perfect torta - made for me by someone else - is the mission this month for this esteemed journal.
Zihuatanejo is home to many a loncheria, small snack places that serve fresh juices, snacks and tortas. The Mexican torta mainly consists of shredded and cooked meat, chicken (pollo), pierna (pork leg), jamon (deli style ham), milanesa (thin slices of beef), or just plain ole cheese (queso). The meat is cooked in a pot with various spices, cooled and stored in the fridge. Then when you order your favorite it is heated up on the comal with the bread and then put on the sandwich. I like this idea. Then you get your choice of mayonaise or mustard , yellow cheese or white cheese, usually it is a manchego or a oaxaca style cheese, then shredded lettuce, cabbage, tomatoes, avocados and peppers. If you like your sandwiches simple, with just the basics, plain meat and cheese is an option as well. Following is a list of places and descriptions of the torta finds my friends and myself frequent and recommend.
From Captain Andrew of the Nirvana – Stew Lady in the Market. The open-air market is abuzz with activity early early in the morning. According to Andrew there is an old woman standing in the middle of the market area, between the meat stalls and the vegetable stalls with large pot of beef stew. The stew is the secret to this torta. Buy a fresh small baguette and hand it to her, she will tear out the bread from the inside and pour in her famous concoction. Get there quick, she runs out of stew by 8:30 am and won’t be back til the next day.
Chef Christian of Cocina del Sol - Augusto at La Buena Torta. This is on the way out of town, going towards Troncones, right past the back entrance to Ixtapa. Here, on the side of the road you will see a sign for tortas. Stop here and order one; they are good. The meat is the secret, tender chicken shredded and cooked in a tomato base with yummy spices and onions. Or, try the breaded milanesa with the oaxacan cheese. The chef’s personal favorite is the ham with double cheese. The bread here is very fresh and I love the fact that his jalepenos are not too spicy. Stop here if you are on your way somewhere in the car and need some nourishment. You will not be disappointed.
My personal favorite - The Loncheria in the market behind the vegetable stalls right next to the chicken stall. This place consistently has the best concoction of chicken I have tasted to date. With white cheese and extra avocados, this beats most places. While you are there, get a mixture of juices too. The girls here will mix most anything you want, papaya and carrot, orange and apple. Not much beats a good sandwich and fresh juice.
Matthew Moore of Austin TX – Air Conditioned place on Ejido Street, just down from BanCrecer on the left – My brother was a bit warm when he was here and while wandering around town one day he found an air-conditioned venue (I think any one would have done for him at that point). He ventured in and decided to order a sandwich. He is a lot like me in the fact that he likes people to make sandwiches for him. He too ordered the double cheese and ham. He walked back raving about the place, and not just because of the cool surroundings. So, I am now a fan as well, I like the way they get the cheese to melt just perfectly.
Four places where they make a sandwich for you, just the way you like it. Mexican style of course.
Buen Provecho.
February 2002
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