by Gabriela Braña

In Mexico, the abundance of water, together with the benign climate, account for the wide variety of fruits and vegetables that can be found.

Some of the fruits and vegetables that were greatly appreciated in ancient Mexico (several of which can still be found in modern Mexican cooking) are: anatto seeds, as seasoning, avocados, pineapples, zucchini flowers, peanuts, cocoa beans, pumpkins, sweet potatoes, coconuts, chayotes, different kinds of fungi, cuitlacoche—the fungus that grows on corn and is a delicacy greatly appreciated in Mexican haute cuisine, mangoes, tomatoes, potatoes, pine nuts, tomatillos, vanilla, onions and the immense variety of fruits that can be found throughout the country.

Some of these fruits should be mentioned separately because they are found only in season and in certain areas.

JICAMA

A herbaceous Mexican plant. It has long round roots, which are white and sweet, juicy and refreshing. The flowers are pale blue and the fruits are pods that can be up to 14 cm. long. The root is the edible part of the plant. It is used in medicine, although the seeds of the pod are poisonous.

A “jicama” salad can be different and has an original taste and texture. Dice one jicama, peeled, and add a dressing made with pineapple juice and toss it with a few roasted peanuts. The ancient Mexicans prepared another salad with jicama and avocado. They would grate two jicamas, add one minced onion, one tomato, diced, and one large avocado in cubes. All of these seasoned with salt and pepper.

Pre-hispanic people would enrich their diet with large fruits that they grew in orchards or in floating gardens.

GUANABANA

The fruit from the “taino wanaban” is a wonderful mixture of sweetness and subtle perfume.

The tree is indigenous to Mexico, it grows to 6-8 mts. The fruits are large; they can weigh up to 2 kilos each, and have a dark green skin which can be removed very easily. They have abundant black seeds. The pulp can be used to prepare refreshments, desserts or it can be eaten plain or with a little honey. The Aztecs believed it was invigorating and stimulating.

GUAVA

The fruit of the “guayabo”, a tree that can be 20 mts. tall. It has a slender trunk—crooked and with many limbs, which is generally divided at the base. It has solitary flowers, white and fragrant. The guava is oval, generally yellow, with an intense and persistent aroma. Its flesh is full of small spherical seeds. It can be eaten raw or cooked in syrup or made into a paste called “guayabate”. It is cultivated along Mexico and Central America and as far south as Peru.

MAMEY

It is a tree that grows in the jungle and can be 40 mts. high, although when grown in orchards it is only 15 mts. high. Although it is called Caribe, it is Mexican and was called Zapote by the Indians. There are different kinds of Zapotes. There is also black Zapote, with which a wonderful dessert can be made by mashing the pulp and adding orange juice, red wine and sugar.

CHICO ZAPOTE

One of Mexico’s stars, chico zapote, is known in other countries because of the sap of the trunk which the ancient Mexicans called tzicli, nowadays chicle or chewing gum. It was used by Pre-hispanic people to clean their teeth. The fruit is very similar to a kiwi on the outside but inside the pulp is reddish brown, very sweet and juicy. It can be eaten fresh, with a spoon or made into desserts. The seeds can be used for medicinal purposes.

A wonderful chico zapote dessert:

* 2 large fruits
* 5 oz. grated chocolate
* 1 tsp. vanilla extract
* 2 tbsp. milk

In a large casserole melt the chocolate with the milk and vanilla, in a bain marie.

Mash the pulp of the fruit and divide it among dessert plates. Cover the dessert with the chocolate sauce and sprinkle toasted almonds on top.

Most of these fruits can be found in local markets. They are very interesting and flavorful. Try to locate them and ask if they are in season are ready to be eaten. They are really worth making the effort.

Gabriela Braña is the chef and owner with her husband of Al Cilantro restaurant in Ixtapa. An expert in Oriental Cooking with a life long love of Mexican cuisine. She can be reached at 553-0610 or 3puertasixtapa@cdnet.com.mx

December 2001

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