SURFING
for Beginners
"If
you are not having fun, you're doing it wrong."
-Jungle Jaak
Jungle Jaak
The beaches around Ixtapa / Zihuatanejo are known
for their surfing. As the tourist high season winds
down for the summer months, the surfing season begins.
To find out a little bit more about the practicalities
of this exhilarating sport, we talked to Jungle Jaak
of Jungle Tours for some basics from his surfing for
beginners course.
HAVING FUN
IS RULE NUMBER ONE!
Surfboards
and You
Surfboards are
made to float on the water. They have a natural center
of gravity. If you were to lay any surfboard in a swimming
pool, it would come to rest the same way every time.
This is what we want to do when we lay on a surf board,
have the board remain in the same relation to the water
as it was without your weight on it, just a bit lower
in the water. This is why I have developed what I call
the nose of the board. This is a spot that I make on
the board for beginners with a bit of wax or a magic
marker. It is a reference point that enables them to
put their nose on the same spot every time so the board
will react to their weight the same way every time.
If the board's
nose digs into the water it is called pearling and you
must move the location of "your nose" back.
To adjust, just scoot back an inch from the mark and
make a mental note.
Too much weigh
in the back and the board will cork the board. This
is a common mistake amongst beginners. You cannot catch
a wave if you are corking your board. Move up an inch
at a time till the board lays in the water naturally.
This will provide you with the maximum hull speed and
minimum drag from the water displacement that you are
causing with your weight.
Do not paddle
with both arms simultaneously because this will cause
the board to speed up and slow down in the water and
you will not be able to maintain constant hull speed
through the water.
Always paddle
with the crawl stroke; one arm and then the other alternatively.
This will provide you with a constant speed so you can
catch that wave.
Ok, so now we
know how to lay on the board, paddle the board. Now
it's time to learn how to sit on the board. When you
first try this you may be quite wobbly at first. The
key to doing this well is being quiet, or trying to
be still. The less movement that you make the easier
you will find it is to do this. All the other skills
of surfing will improve as you learn to be "quiet"
while surfing.
Now it's time
to learn how to stand up. This is something you have
been doing all your life. Lie on your chest, your head
up, looking ahead. Smile! Remember Rule Number One.
Put your hands on the board beside your shoulders palms
down like you were going to do a push up. Push your
upper body up while at the same time you sweep your
feet under you, laying them on the stringer so your
weight is centered on the "line."
When you come
up, remember to keep low. If you stand erect you will
fall. Assume a position of a sumo wrestler. Press your
feet shoulder width apart and "grip the board in
your feet", opposite of the way you would press
your thighs together on a horse. Have your hands a bit
higher than your waist and just in view of your vision.
Always look up! If you look at your feet, you will fall
down. I promise!
Practice this
for hours. Have someone watch you and have them critique
your performance. Practice jumping up without making
a sound on the floor. Quiet is the smoothest way to
approach this so practice doing it quietly. If you have
a surfboard, lay it on a large bed and do this exercise.
This is a way for you to judge your ability to be quiet.
Don't tell Mom cause she'll not be impressed.
Safety
Never have your
board between yourself and the coming waves.
To avoid collision
with others, keep a safe distance, say fifteen feet.
Never push your
board through the water fin first. The fin or fins were
made to keep the board pointing nose first. Pushing
the board fins first can be quite dangerous because
the board wants to go the other direction.
Beginner surfers
should consider wearing a vest, rash guard or tee shirt
to avoid the rubbed rash they will get on their stomach
and chest.
When you fall
off your board, cover the back of your head with your
hands, with your wrists over your ears and your elbows
together. Stay under water for a moment longer than
necessary. There are companies that make helmets and
this is another alternative. This author does not use
a helmet.
When you come
up, try to be facing the oncoming waves and look for
your boards location immediately. Loose boards in the
ocean are very dangerous objects for swimmers.
Surfing Etiquette
The first standing
surfer that is closest to the breaking wave is the rightful
surfer of that wave. Anyone paddling for that wave must
quit. There are repercussions to not following this
rule and it can be very dangerous.
Most known surf
spots have locals who surf that spot every day and some
believe that they "own the beach". We all
know that this is not the case. Having said that, the
stranger, no matter their ability, should endeavor to
show some respect for these social dinosaurs.
Many people
are surfing on longer boards now days. These boards
have greater flotation and provide the rider with a
clear advantage regarding right of way. Remember, there
are great advantages in sharing too!
I prefer to
surf with women because they adhere to rule number one
better than men.
The surfer riding
the wave has the right of way and the paddlers who are
paddling out must yield. This means that the paddlers
must paddle out of the way whenever possible, even if
it is into the breaking wave or behind the rider. If
you are paddling for a wave and someone is paddling
out toward you, make eye contact with that person and
indicate your intentional direction in reference to
them. A nod in the direction you are going can work.
Every situation is different so practice being nice
in the water. It will make you feel good, I promise.
Hooting for a good wave or encouraging someone is good
too.
Remember, you will get what you give. Always adhere
to rule Number One!
Jungle Tours
of Mexico was founded in 1990 in Puerto Escondido, Oaxaca.
Jungle Tours guarantees that you will stand up with
their world famous beginner surf lesson or you don't
pay. It includes a one hour lesson and the use of the
board for the day. They also rent surfboards, bikes,
boogie boards and fins or snorkel-fins and masks, daily
or weekly. See their web site for more information and
other tours, www.jungletours.net They are located in
Troncones, phone # 553-2862, e-mail: jaak@jungletours.net
or team@jungletours.net
April 2001
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