Traveling Mexico – Real de Catorce

"While walking out in the foothills of the valley at the bottom of the graveyard, an image of Clint Eastwood on a pale horse riding up from the desert, came to mind."

--K.L. Moore--

Found in the heart of the Sierra Madre Oriental Mountain Range, Real de Catorce is a true Mexican ghost town. The city was mysteriously abandoned in the 1920’s and is now inhabited by roughly 1000 people. In its heyday, Real de Catorce was a wealthy silver-mining town with a population of 40,000 people. Catorce can only be reached by one road, a long windy tunnel through a former mine-shaft. There are several speculations as to why the city was abandoned. One reason was that, because of its remote location, the city became a refuge for the banditos during the revolution years and that the banditos scared away the residents. The more official reason was the fall in the price of silver at the turn of the century. Whatever the reason, the city is now a very lonely place. As you stand at the top of the hill overlooking the town, you can see how the architecture seems to dwindle into ruins, a city that just stopped growing.

The Huichól Indians believe that their peyote and maize gods reside in the hills around Catorce. Every year in May or June, the Indians make a pilgrimage of about 400 kilometers to participate in rituals involving the peyote. This is one of the reason hippies seem to flock to this place, seeking some sort of spiritual trip of their own. Some 150,000 other visitors make a pilgrimage from September 25 to October 12, seeking to pay their respects to the figure of Saint Francis of Assisi, located in the church. The icon is thought to have healing and cleansing powers. However, there are more reasons than the above to visit the town. Even in the ruins you can see the town’s former grandeur. The church is a beautiful example of neoclassical architecture. The city, also due to its wealth from the silver, has a cock fighting ring (palenque) modeled after a Roman amphitheater. There is also a bull-fighting ring (Plaza de Toros) which has recently been remodeled. Perhaps one of the eeriest spots is the graveyard (Panteón). The cemetery surrounds a small church and is only a third full, a perfect example of a graveyard in a ghost town, Hollywood could not make one more true to form. One of the best activities is hiking through the hills outside the town. The small roads of the town crumble into desert paths and serve as perfect hiking trails. The views are spectacular and the surrounding countryside is filled with lonely mountains. While walking out in the foothills of the valley at the bottom of the graveyard, an image of Clint Eastwood on a pale horse riding up from the desert, came to mind. Horses are also available for trail-riding for about $4.00 dollars per hour.

There are several restaurants, stores and hotels in the town, operated by some of the 1000 inhabitants of Catorce.

Located off highway 57, between Saltillo and San Luis Potosi, Real de Catorce is easy to find. To get there by bus from Matehuala take a direct one to Real de Catorce. Once off the bus, you have to wait for another bus to come through the tunnel to take you through to Catorce. The town offers a taste of days gone by and peaceful place to think and relax.

This wanderer highly recommends Real de Catorce.

December 1999

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